Espresso fans know that good espresso comes from freshly roasted beans brewed in a machine that pumps
hot water through the grounds in a precise amount of time. Pumping
produces a totally different beverage that the stuff made by “steam
toys.” These are fake espresso machines that blast a head of steam
though the grounds from a boiling chamber. That is why good pumping
machines cost a lot of money and fake steam machines are found for
$19.95.
I accept that it is OK to compromise on the
roasting and the grinding of beans at home. First, proper home grinders
are expensive, and home roasting can be a smoky mess. But the pump part
- or at least avoiding the steam blast - is critical. The intense heat
of the steam liberates all kinds of waxes and other coffee bean
components that simply don't taste good.
The really good pump machines are not the ones
you find on sale at the local big box store. The best are often made in
Italy and can easily cost more than a flat screen TV.
The better machines emulsify coffee oils under
their pump pressure, producing stuff called “crema.” Crema is a
beautiful caramel colored topping that is deposited on your espresso
shot at the very end of the pumping. Under the best conditions, it is
about a quarter inch thick, not to frothy, and does not break down in a
few seconds.
Some low end espresso makers, add a little
pressure valve to the portafilter to create what detractors call “false
crema.” This stuff often does not have the color, taste or consistency
of the real thing that is produced through traditional "pulling" of
carefully packed and tamped shots.
So naturally, when I heard that the under $100 Handpresso produces shots comparable to high end units, I had to find out.
There are two versions of the Handpresso. One
uses espresso pods and the other traditional grounds tamped into a
small reusable mesh basket.
Both use air pressure (not steam) to force
water through the grounds one shot at a time. You provide the air
pressure by pumping with about 40 short strokes (it’s not hard). Then
you add hot water in a little chamber and drop in the grounds basket or
the pod. Screw on the portafilter, flip the unit over, and press the
release button. Presto! You have a good tasting shot of espresso.
A few caveats: You must use properly ground beans
to get the proper extraction time. Unevenly ground coffee, or coffee
that is too coarse will produce a weak shot that rushes through the
unit in a few seconds. Too fine a grind (the Turkish coffee setting)
will clog the unit. Tamp the grounds in the portafilter basket
gently.
UPDATE:
There
are a few reports of units giving out after about 5 months of use. Mine
is one. They are very interested to find out what is going
wrong. Still, the repair is $15 plus shipping to them. I'm sending my
in to find out more!
